Making No Sew Curtains

HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN CURTAINS

Step 1

Measure the window, including width for folds in the fabric. Begin estimating at the highest point of the window or somewhat above it utilizing a measuring tape. Ensure you measure the length to the point where you need your curtain to fall on the window or wall and record that number.

At that point, isolate the width of the curtain down the middle, and add that estimation to the width so your curtain has folds when the curtains are closed.

For instance, if your window is 90 inches (230 cm) wide, you would include 45 inches (110 cm) to the estimation to make the all out width of your fabric 135 inches (340 cm).

On the off chance that you needed the curtain to hang 4 inches (10 cm) beneath the window, you would add this estimation to the length. In the event that the window is 80 inches (200 cm) high, you would utilize 84 inches (210 cm) as your length estimation.

All in all, full-length curtains and curtains will in general be somewhere in the range of 60– 120 inches (150– 300 cm) long, contingent upon the measure of the window.

Step 2

Pick a fabric that gives you the appropriate measure of inclusion. Curtains can be produced using practically any fabric, so pick one that suits your requirements. Heavier fabrics are extraordinary for sifting through light and making a room cooler and darker. Lighter fabrics are best to let in characteristic light and warmth. When you buy the fabric, make sure to include additional length for seam stipends, as well!

In the event that you need your curtains to look decent from outside of your home when you’re glancing through the window, make certain to select a twofold sided fabric.

Distinctive Types of Fabric

Polyester is a flexible fabric that is reasonable and accessible in various loads, enabling you to pick how much light comes in.

Cotton and material are well known alternatives that have a casual vibe and permit light from outside to channel in.

Velvet and power outage are extraordinary fabrics for shutting out daylight and warmth.

Step 3

Cut each board with an extra 1– 2 in (2.5– 5.1 cm) on each side. Utilize a couple of fabric scissors or a claim to fame fabric shaper to trim your picked fabric to measure. In the event that you need different boards, include somewhere around 2 inches (5.1 cm) of width to the fabric per board and 2 inches (5.1 cm) of length per board for the seams. At that point, isolate the complete width by the quantity of boards and slice them to the best possible width.

For example, on the off chance that you need 2 boards for a window treatment, and your unique estimation in addition to half was 135 inches (340 cm), you would include 4 inches (10 cm) to the estimation for an all out width of 139 inches (350 cm). At that point, you can slice the fabric down the middle to make boards that are 69.5 inches (177 cm).

Step 4

Crease and stick 1 in (2.5 cm) side seams on the back of each board. Measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the fabric as an afterthought for the seam, and wrinkle at the edge of the board, collapsing the fabric to the “wrong” side of the fabric. Apply sticks roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) separated along the wrinkle. At that point, rehash this procedure on each side of the boards, including the top and bottom

After you overlap and stick the fabric, venture back to guarantee that the seams are a similar width.

Step 5

Iron the seams to wrinkle the fabric. Set your iron to the most reduced dimension and press along every one of the seams. Move the iron all over the seams solidly and rapidly for 5-10 seconds for each seam. This will make a wrinkle in the fabric to direct you when you apply the fabric tape.

Make an effort not to hold the iron set up for over 5 seconds, as this can cause searing on the fabric.

Step 6

Expel the pins to squeeze fabric combination tape between the seam and board. Cautiously haul the pins out of the seam that you need to combine first, and cut a bit of fabric tape to fit the whole length of the seam. Press it into the fabric, and after that overlap the seam down over it, sandwiching the tape in the middle of the fabric.[6]

Make sure to rehash this procedure for each seam, including the sides, top, and base of the boards.

Step 7

Spot a moist towel over the seam and iron the fabric set up. Check the tape bearings to set the iron to the correct temperature, which is ordinarily the “fleece” setting. At that point, lay a clammy cotton towel over the seam, and move the iron along the seam, holding it set up for 10 seconds in each spot to intertwine the fabric together.

When you have the greater part of your seams done, you will probably have fabric covering in the corners. This is ordinary, and you can trim it on a point to ensure the fabric doesn’t turn out to be excessively thick toward the sides of the board.

Step 8

Clasp curtain rings 1– 2 in (2.5– 5.1 cm) separated along the top seam. Position the rings on the top seam of the fabric with a ring at both of the top corners of the board. To make the boards seem to be indistinguishable, check to guarantee that each board has a similar number of rings.

In the event that the fabric for your curtains is designed, ensure the example is confronting the correct heading before you cut the rings set up.

Tip: To make your curtains look tasteful and deliberate, coordinate the shade of the ring clasps to the shade of the curtain bar.

Step 9

Slide the rings onto a curtain pole to hang the curtains. Expel the bar from the window, and position the rings on the pole so the boards have an accordion-like shape. At that point, hang up the bar and alter the curtains to your preference.[9]

A few people iron their curtains before hanging them. You can likewise steam them while they’re hanging up to discharge wrinkles and wrinkles in the fabric. Make certain to keep away from the seams, as a lot of warmth can make them twist or split separated.

Method 2

Sewing Rod Pocket Curtains

Step 1

Measure the window, including length and width for seams. Utilize a measuring tape beginning at or simply over the highest point of the window, and measure the length and width. Ensure you measure the length down to the region on your window or wall where you’d like the curtains to lie. At that point, include 4 in (10 cm) to the width and 12 in (30 cm) to the height.

For example, on the off chance that you have a window that is 120 inches (300 cm) wide and 160 inches (410 cm) high, your new estimations would be 124 inches (310 cm) wide and 172 inches (440 cm) high for a curtain that falls straightforwardly at the base of the window.

Most curtains run long from 60– 120 inches (150– 300 cm) contingent upon the span of the window, however you can make yours a non-standard length in the event that you need.

Step 2

Pick a strong fabric that will give enough light filtration to the room. At the specialty or fabric store, choose solid fabrics that are anything but difficult to slide along a level surface, for example, cotton, or cloth. To make the room darker and cooler when the curtains are shut, decide on a delicate, overwhelming fabric, similar to velvet, which will in any case be anything but difficult to slide on the curtain pole when you need to modify them.

Abstain from utilizing overwhelming fabrics that don’t slide effectively, similar to calfskin, as these can stall out on the curtain bar.

In the event that you need the curtains to look great from outside of the window also, make certain to pick a twofold sided fabric.

Step 3

Slice the fabric as per your estimations. Utilize your new estimations to trim the fabric to the right size for your windows. To part the curtain into 2 boards, partition the width down the middle so every one of the boards are an equivalent width and the stature continues as before for each.

It’s ideal to just have 1 or 2 boards for each window, since beyond what 2 boards can without much of a stretch cluster together and stall out on the bar.

On the off chance that you choose to influence 2 boards, to make sure to include an extra 4 inches (10 cm) to your width estimation to represent 2 more seam stipends on the sides of the boards.

Tip: If you’re making a valence or half shade, keep the width of the fabric the equivalent, and abbreviate the length to give the correct inclusion on your window.

Step 4

Include 1 in (2.5 cm) seams at the edges of the boards. Crease and stick side seams onto the back of each board, and after that rapidly iron over them to hold the seam set up. Utilize a sewing machine to rapidly sew the seams down, or sew them by hand for a more carefully assembled look. When the seams are sewn down, evacuate the pins.[13]

It’s critical to sew the side seams first to enable the top and base seams to have open closures for embedding the pole.

Step 5

Overlay the highest point of the curtain down 3 in (7.6 cm) and sew it set up. To make the top pocket for the curtain bar, wrinkle the fabric with the goal that the seam is somewhere around twofold the width of the bar. Stick the seam set up and iron the wrinkle to guarantee that it remains set up. At that point, utilize a sewing machine or hand sew the seam into spot before evacuating the pins.

In case you don’t know how wide your bar is, 3 inches (7.6 cm) is ordinarily enough to accommodate generally poles. In the event that you need a more tightly fit so the pole remains set up, utilize the twofold width technique. Make sure to modify the estimations of your seam remittances to suit this change.

Step 6

Sew a 3 in (7.6 cm) seam onto the base of each board. For the base seam, rehash the procedure for the top “take.” If you don’t need the base seam to be open on the sides, you can sew them shut at the edge seam.

On the off chance that you need to add a footer to the curtain, you can sew an extra line of string down the center of the seam.

Step 7

Slide your boards onto a curtain bar and drape it in your home. Position the opening of the top seam on the curtain toward the finish of the pole with the example of the fabric looking toward you. Ensure the seams are looking toward the window, and after that hang the pole up on the wall.